FAQ'S

The following are the most frequently asked questions we have heard both at the shows and festivals we attend and over the Internet. Some are much more apt to come up when we are dealing in person with people but every question and every answer on this page has been repeated hundreds, if not thousands, of times over the years.
Note that we have set the sections up for easy access from the product pages so if you are actually reading the whole thing at once some of the wording like "scroll down for more info" may seem a little redundant. Just hang in there and ignore stuff that doesn't seem to belong.  And thanks for being so interested.

GENERAL

What is shearling?

Shearling lambskin is the proper term for what many people call "sheepskin". The distinction is basically that a "sheepskin" is technically just that, the skin of a sheep. Shearling is the skin of a newly shorn lamb (market age) that is tanned with the wool in tact on the skin. While we always prefer to use the proper term you will find the terms interspersed on our web pages for technical reasons. All our products are shearling regardless of how we refer to our raw material. And, no, we don't resort to calling it "sheepskin shearling" or "shearling sheepskin" or, the newest one from a Vermont firm no less, "100% wool shearling". Come on, use your head, if it is shearling there is wool involved. Maybe some enterprising farmer has come up with a 50% wool, 50% polyester blend lamb but we don't think so.

Are these products from your own sheep?

No, we don't raise sheep. That in itself would be a full time job if we wanted to try to make a living at it (most people we know who raise sheep would debate whether or not the phrase "making a living" can be used in the same book with "raising sheep".) We purchase our skins from major tanneries here and overseas and continue from there. The pattern designs are ours as is all the workmanship except where it is otherwise noted.

Do you tan hides?

The business itself was a result of Rick's time working for AC Lawrence Leathers which was once one of the largest shearling tanners in the world. He "has done his time" working in various capacities from dealing with raw skins to serving as tanner and chief dyer, tanning and dying thousands of skins a day, but we do not tan hides. (Regrettably, AC Lawrence, Shearling Division, is lost in history with little serious info on the web. Many a good person worked there and the "old timers" would gladly grace you with a story about WW II when the tannery was running at maximum capacity for our Air Force needs. So, this is our little eulogy for all those who worked so hard in a difficult job and a note of what fine people most of them were. We will remember you all.) There are numerous companies that specialize in custom tanning for individuals. Contact with the tanner should be made in advance so that they may tell you how to properly prepare the hide for tanning. Improper preparation will often ruin the skin and make it impossible to tan. Our advice is to try them all out and see which tanner you are most satisfied with. We have heard good and bad comments about all of them.

Where do your shearlings come from?

With the coming of 2007 we started doing business with a wider variety of worldwide tanners. This is not by choice but by necessity. The US is currently down to one shearling tanner of any significance and they control most of the raw skin trade as well. As anyone in business knows, relying on one supplier is a recipe for disaster. This was solidly underscored when that one tannery decide not to ship our orders during the holiday season in 2006. Of course we all know what happens when one company controls the availability of a given product as well.
Since the only place to go is "off shore" for suppliers this is what we do.
Our skins are sourced from a variety of tanners which include that single one in the US but we simply can not afford to rely on them alone any longer. With the loss of another US tanner in the fall of 2005 the stage was set. But, we hung on as long as we could.

Will the products shed?

It takes some time for the loose wool in a new product to work it's way out. This is not shedding but simply wool that was cut when the skins were cut. Once the loose fibers are gone there will be no shedding of any kind.

How do I care for my purchase?

Basic rules are quite simple and relate to many leather products in general. If the product happens to be worn in the rain or snow simply allow it to dry at room temperature. Never attempt to dry by a high heat source. Once the product is dry you can brush out most water spots with a soft bristle brush. Please store in a dry place as mildew can form and can never be completely removed. Never encase in plastic for storage, a paper bag or box is preferable. Moths will generally not bother the items unless you have real problems with moths anyway. If so, please store as you would a good wool sweater and think about calling someone who specializes in getting rid of the little critters.

How do I clean my purchase? (Very high on the most asked questions list.)

All of our products can be dry cleaned. Please choose a reputable leather dry cleaner as there are those who would say, "Oh yes, we can dry clean anything."
If you are careful, you can also wash the products. Cool water and an extremely mild soap, air drying away from heat and sunshine works well. Bleach, hot water, drying on a woodstove, etc. will destroy the product. You can visit our "washing" page for more detailed information.
But, if you wash a cotton shirt, it comes out more or less like it did when it was new. When you wash sheepskin it doesn't look "new" when it is dry. Therefore, because of the public's expectations, we tend to discourage washing. In addition, since we can't be around to supervise your wash methods, we cannot be responsible for any damage that occurs should you decide to wash your purchase.
Our absolute answer to the question is, "Consider having your product leather dry cleaned." We think you will be happier with the results.

Do you wholesale?

Yes, we maintain a limited wholesale clientele. Contact requesting wholesale information should be made in the spring. We rarely accept new customers during the busy season as production is generally fully booked by August. Just don't expect us to be competitive with the imports from a price perspective. It just can't be done. If you want "cheap" please don't even bother to ask.

Do you have a retail store?

No, we tried that and watching a store really interferes with production of the merchandise. The only way to purchase directly from us is by order or by meeting us at a show. We do not do any direct retail business here in Townshend. We are developing a list of retail stores which carry our products as well as many other fine goods. The list will not be complete as store participation is entirely voluntary. 

FAQ'S FROM INTERNET CUSTOMERS

Why don't you have on-line ordering? (Most often asked question and complaint.)

Easy, to help us maintain a better level of service to our customers. We are T-I-N-Y compared to that mass of retailers out there so we can only handle a certain amount of business from our web site. We don't have massive statistics to share with you as hundreds of  people a day is nothing. But, if even 1% of the people who visited did a "point and click" on an item we would be in big trouble. By keeping ordering just a bit more difficult, (like picking up the phone is a struggle) we are more confident that we will be able to continue to fill our (your) orders and deliver as we promised. As an example, during the holiday season of 2005, at one point we booked three days worth of work over one two hour period and that was over the phone. We honestly could not handle the volume that might come in through point and click once the weather starts to cool down.
We considered Google Checkout for some of the smaller items but since we are already fighting with MasterCard and VISA anyway, we don't need any more headaches. We would literally have to put your data on a computer just to prove to them it is safe. Go figure. We have a patriotic duty to remain old fashioned. You haven't seen us holding out our hand for a "bail out" so we are content to remain an oddity if that keeps us solvent, our customers happy, and their data secure.
We have been around for awhile (the trademark was registered in the early 80's if you don't believe us) and we still do face to face business with people so we have adapted all we have learned to the new world of ecommerce. All said and done the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival and the New York Sheep and Wool Festival combined force us to do more face to face business with people than the Internet will likely bring our way in a year. Try doing face to face business with thousands of people a day. 
Taking an enormous amount of orders is great until you realize you have to deliver. It is rather like getting a new credit card and regarding it as extra spending money.  We want to serve you well and that doesn't come about by over booking our production capabilities.

I want my order shipped by UPS®/FedEx®/etc.. Can you do it?

Well, yes, we can, but..... The simplest explanation is that, once again, we are T-I-N-Y which, according to those big shipping companies means we pay, big time, to do business with them. They give lots of discounts to the large customers and we get to pay full retail (so to speak) so, you will too. As an example using UPS shipping rates for February 2010, to send a pair of standard ear muffs to a rural location on the West Coast our cost would be $14.04. Add a little for a box, say 75 cents, plus $3 for processing/packing etc. and we would have to charge you $17.79 for s/h for an item that retails for $12. Now, does that really make sense? And, let us go a step further. They charge us a surcharge because we are in Vermont, they charge us a surcharge because we work in our home and, in January of 2007, UPS effectively DOUBLED the shipping charges for our incoming skins. They didn't go up that much in their rates per pound, they just recalculated their dimensional rates. The exact same size/weight box went from $20 to $40. So, why should we want to give them more of our money? (And, all of those surcharges go into the price we have to charge for our products so you are already paying UPS a "surcharge" yourself.)
If you really want your item shipped by someone other than the Post Office, we be happy to FedEx it for you as there is a drop box locally. There is a $3 fee charged for handling/processing of the order on top of the FedEx charges. We do not ship UPS as it requires a half hour drive (one way) to get to the nearest location and we would have to waste time standing in line as well.
Sorry, but the big package companies just don't want anything to do with us little folks despite what they advertise. But... don't tell anyone, they drop some packages off at the Post Office for delivery. What is the point of paying one of them if they give it to the Post Office to deliver anyway?
(UPS® is, of course, a registered trademark of United Parcel Service and FedEx® is, of course, a registered trademark of FDX Corporation.)

We ship via First Class® and Priority Mail® to all US destinations. The charges that we list cover the actual cost of shipping, packaging materials when necessary, and the time it takes to process your order, pack it, and get it to the local Post Office. Prices for the merchandise are set based on the cost of production of the merchandise only. If we weren't handling all the various processes ourselves we would have to pay someone else to do it and, quite honestly, charge even more for s/h as we would at least have to pay them minimum wage. (Priority Mail® and First Class Mail® are, you guessed it, registered trademarks of the United States Postal Service.)

Below are the actual rates that we would be charged for a coast to coast rural shipment as of February 2010 and include all the hidden surcharges. To compare, anything less than 1 pound we either charge $5.50 or $8.50 for s/h. Anything over 1 pound, we charge $10.00 OR $11.00 for s/h. Anything we charge $8.50 or $10/$11 for is usually delivered in two to three days. (The rates below do not reflect the cost of shipping to Alaska or Hawaii, or Canada.)

Better still, if we ship a less than one pound box 10 miles down the road, UPS would charge $12.60 and FedEx Ground would charge $11.86. Just thought you should have all the facts in front of you before you request an alternate shipping method. Look at the 2 and three day shipping charges. Can you spell "price fixing"? If the "big guys" had their way, they would eliminate all USPO parcel delivery so they could charge even more.

I have this hat/pair of slippers/etc. that I like. Can you duplicate it for me?

Basically, the answer is no, we don't do duplication of items.

We met the daughter of a retired shoe manufacturer at a show (yes, people USED to make shoes in New England and New York) and she shared with us her father's answer to that question. "I can do anything. How many thousands do you want to buy and how much are you willing to pay?" Pattern design, even duplication, is a long tedious process and usually results in many failures before something even remotely marketable comes off the sewing machine. At the barest minimum, duplicating an item would require a day of pattern work and three or four test runs. So, while we know you must dearly love that item, are you willing to spend a minimum of $200-$300 for design work alone? 

I have this coat that needs repair. Will you do it for me?

Sorry, we do not work on other people's products, especially large, often expensive, garments. Honestly, all it takes is one simple mistake and the item is ruined and we do make mistakes. We don't like being in that kind of position of liability. Also, it comes down to doing the job right and how much that costs. More than the garment's original price in most cases. 

Do you do?

Car Seat Covers?

No. For a really good seat cover you should do business with someone who specializes in that type of work. There are several on our list page to choose from.

Coats?

Not any more (except on a rare occasion for family). We did for many years when we could hand-pick the skins we purchased but once we had to order in our shearlings it got increasingly difficult to get a good color match of 6 or 7 skins needed to do a quality garment. Again, there are several firms on our list page that will sell you a coat. We are not willing to recommend anyone but we advise that you shop carefully and pay close attention to the return policy. A quality shearling garment is a good investment and we highly recommend purchasing one as they are both stylish and functional. But, you want to be sure you get what you really want as they are rather expensive. (Pictured is a size 2 toddler jacket with hood made from 100% Spanish Merino Lambskin, our make and design.)

FOOTWEAR

Top Question of all times - How long do the shearling soles last?

There is no definitive answer to this question. There are many factors that determine the life span of the shearling on the bottom not the least of which are the habits of the user. Some people will wear through the bottom in a season and we can honestly say that we have had people whose soles (souls?) have lasted ten years. We believe the average life span is about two years though it could be much longer. We have to go by the age of the slippers we get back for resoling. Do note that wearing these on abrasive surfaces such as concrete and/or wearing them outside will greatly shorten the lifespan.
One of the reasons finding slippers with just shearling soles, no added outsole, is so difficult is because sheepskin, unlike cow hide, is not sold by the weight (thickness). All skins vary in thickness and will vary from one part of the skin to another as well and they just aren't as durable as cow hide. Most others have abandoned pure sheepskin soles because there is no way to make any promises regarding longevity. Our customers like the nice soft shearling sole so we are not planning on stopping production. This is why we offer resoling. This keeps the slippers going for as long as the uppers will hold a stitch.
Honestly, it doesn't help that tanners keep going out of business. We have, over time, had 5 different suppliers for our slipper bottoms. When one closes its doors it takes some time to "educate" a new source of supply and then, a couple of years later, they are gone. But, in the end, we have to use what they ship us so we just hope they ship us something within our specs.
However, in 2008 we have been able to get back to our "roots" so to speak. When we started and for many years after, we used a vegetable tanned shearling for slipper bottoms. As tanners went out of business there was no source for a decent quality vegetable tanned skin. This type of sheepskin tannage is used primarily for the underside of high quality saddles as it is firm and very durable. It is a different color on the leather side than what we were previously using as chrome tan is white and vegetable tan is a tan color (which is where the color "tan" probably came from). But, it is a good sole material as well.

Number 2 Question of all times - Do you make slippers in ?? size?

We can do alterations when necessary but we don't specifically produce slippers in all the various widths from AAAA to EEEE. Don't let anyone fool you, no one does. Our slipper sizes are determined by the patterns we cut from, not by the size of the last like the manufacturers who produce for the larger market. Our standard patterns allow a generous amount of width, especially once the slipper has been worn for awhile and width seems to be one of the major problems we hear about.
If you have a problem with width then we can cut you a slightly wider pair of slippers but please don't call and say "I need a wide". What is wide? Even the standard A to E width measurements aren't much of a help to us. We have seen EEE's that are perfectly normal width to ones that are 1/2 inch wider than normal. 
As for shoe size the largest pair we have ever done was a size 20 and we have also done work for people with markedly different shoe sizes (one pair was 4 full sizes different from one foot to the other). If you need a single slipper then we will be happy to make you one at 1/2 the full pair price. (We encountered one competitor's site that claimed they made their own slippers yet made it clear they wouldn't sell in anything less than pairs. Our question is, "Why?") 
We do reserve the right to charge additional money for alterations, especially for larger pairs. It must be understood that a foot tracing is essential to adapting the pattern to your foot. Without a tracing we don't know how wide "wide" is.

Which is better, the shearling sole or the crepe sole?

It is simply a matter of personal preference and personal habits. Many people simply don't like a slipper with a ridged bottom (Kathy is one of them). However, if you are one of those folks who seem to run outside "just for a minute" in your slippers day in and day out you will be much happier with the durability of the crepe sole. It is a trade off. For comfort we suggest the shearling sole, for wandering out to get the mail or downstairs into the basement we suggest the crepe sole.

May I purchase the scuffs without the crepe bottom?

Of course we could make them without the crepe bottom but they would not work out. The shearling is too flexible and would fold up under your foot every time you took a step.

RESOLING

How do I go about getting my slippers resoled?

Simply package them up with a check for $17 and send them to our PO Box. The fee covers return mail to you. If you send them back Priority Mail you can even get the box or mailing envelope free from your post office. Ask them for a Tyvek Priority Mail envelope or a Priority Mail box.  Resoling takes up to three weeks  during June, July and August and six weeks during the remainder of the year. We do not do resoling in November, December or January so please do not return your slippers to us near or during those months. Please remember this is for the shearling soled slippers only and only our products. We absolutely do not work on other people's products.

Why can't you resole the crepe soled slippers?

Planned obsolescence! No, not really. Two main reasons. Removing the sole requires the use of a solvent which is usually soaked up by the upper as well. The sewing machine needle we use to sew through the crepe is much larger than other needles so it creates larger perforations in the leather. By the time the crepe wears out the slipper is usually quite weak anyway and would never hold a new stitch with that needle. The new sole would likely tear right off.

EAR MUFFS
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Are the frames adjustable?

No, they are solid and cannot be adjusted. They will fit most adults. We have been experimenting with a slightly shorter frame and try to keep a few available for those who really need one. However, we have found that it is still too long for very young children. The total length of the normal frame from the bottom of one ring to the bottom of the other is approximately 17½ inches. The total length of the smaller frame measured the same way is approximately 16½ inches. The diameter of each ring is 3 inches. When in doubt it is best to order the standard length frame as they certainly fit the majority of our customers without any problem. Note that the shorter ear muff frames are available with the black velvet covered band only. You can also adjust the length by turning the muff part up a bit on the pin. The only trouble is it is tough to explain in print.

What are the ear muff frames made from?

Plastic, we don't know if anyone makes metal band ear muff frames any more. Please note that we do not make the frames. We get them from a supplier so we have no control over length or components used in their production. They are assembled in the USA from imported and domestic components.

Why the difference in price between the "standard" style and the "special" and "traditional" styles?

The "standard" style are made from pieces left over from production of our larger products. The "special" and "traditional" styles are produced from skins bought specifically for ear muffs and, in the case of the "special" style, seat belt covers. So, in the "standard" style, the price reflects only the cost of the frames and the labor involved. In the "special" and "traditional" styles, the cost of the shearling is added in. Other than that, the "standard" style ear muffs are only available in one color while we offer a selection in the other two ear muff styles.

Will they break?

We assume people really mean, "Will they break under normal circumstances?" The answer to the first question is, "Of course they will, especially if it is twenty below and you rip them out of your pocket and pull them apart as fast as possible because your ears are freezing." The answer to the second question is, " Not generally under normal circumstances." It does happen once in awhile because nothing is ever perfect, and yes, as they get older they get more brittle. However, as you see by the picture our frames use a metal hinge and a wire for the muff base. Frames that are 100 % plastic are very apt to break apart at the hinge. If they do break after a period of time we will be happy to replace the frame so don't throw them away. The cost of frame replacement is $6 for the velvet  covered bands and $8 for the leather or the shearling covered bands. This includes return shipping. However, this offer is only extended to our customers with our ear muffs. We absolutely will not repair ear muffs that we did not produce.

CANDY'S BEAR

Is it jointed?

No, it just sits there and does nothing. However, you don't have to feed and water it either since it doesn't expend any energy by moving. :)

SEAT BELT COVERS
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Are they hot in the summer?

No, as a matter of fact the summer is when they are most welcome. They are strictly to keep the belt from rubbing on your neck. When one has a bulky winter coat on the coat will protect the neck. During the summer lighter weight clothing often allows the belt to chaff. If you scoff at the necessity then simply ask someone who doesn't fit the "normal" height most shoulder harnesses are set for. Believe it or not we have heard from a few accident victims who have informed us that the belt cover helped to lesson the belt bruising that can occur in a major accident. They were, of course, very grateful that they were wearing the belt. Belt bruising or not, it was better to be alive. 

Will your seat belt cover fit my shoulder harness?

Haven't found any they won't fit yet as long as they are installed according to the instructions included with the cover. It should be noted that because we specifically designed our cover for shoulder harness application it will not fit anything wider but it is usable for any kind of strap that is narrower and flat. Please also note that you have the option to purchase them in any length you desire.

What about covering other types of straps?

We can develop a cover for most any type of strap but we will need some details from you. Please email us and tell us what you want to cover.